Pendakian Gunung Kinibalu (Climbing the Mt. Kinibalu)

Kisah berikut adalah cerita perjalanan seorang kawan, dr. Shofwan, yang baru saja mendaki Gunung Kinibalu di Malaysia. Dengannya saya pernah mendaki gunung Arjuno di Malang, Jawa Timur (Kisahnya bisa dibaca di sini). Dan untuk memudahkan mereka yang tidak berbahasa Indonesia, akan saya terjemahkan langsung ke bahasa Inggris paragraf demi paragraf. Berikut kisahnya…

The following is story from my friend, Shofwan MD, with whom I have climbed Mt. Arjuno in Malang, East Java (the story can be read here). For more convenience, I translated the original story from Indonesian to English paragraph by paragraph. This is the story…

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2 Minggu sebelumnya…
Berawal dari ajakan camer  saya bergegas menyiapkan dokumen, terutama paspor, dan peralatan gunung saya yg udah hampir setahun terbengkalai. Perasaan sungkan, semangat dan penasaran bercampur aduk, karena ini pertama kalinya saya naik gunung di luar negeri, bareng rekan perjalanan yang sangat berbeda dari perjalanan saya mendaki sebelumnya.

Two weeks before departure
Started from the offer of my girlfriend’s Dad, I hurry up prepared the required documents like passport and mountaineering equipments, almost one year untouched. The feel of spirit, reluctant and embittered was mixed as it will my first international climb with the very different community compared to my previous adventure.

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25 Februari 2012
Setelah packing, kami bergegas ke Juanda untuk perjalanan ke Jakarta. Karena pesawat Air Asia ke Kota Kinabalu (disingkat KK) hanya ada dari Jakarta. Alhamdulillah pesawat on time. Di Terminal 3 Soetta kami bertemu rombongan dari Jakarta dan Bandung. Sedangkan rombongan dari Batam, Malaysia, dan Singapura langsung ke KK. Rombongan tersebut adalah para WNI yg kerja disana.
Fyi, perjalanan kami semua ke Gunung Kinabalu berada dibawah naungan Karas Adventure yang bertanggungjawab atas semua, mulai transport, akomodasi, perijinan, dan asuransi. Gampangannya, semua peserta tinggal bayar, terima beres, tapi tetap memperhatikan aturan umum pendaki gunung, terutama fisik dan mental.


February 25th, 2013
After everything was packed, we go to Jakarta from Juanda AP (Surabaya). The airplane, Air Asia, is only available from Jakarta to Kinibalu (KK), Malaysia. It was lucky because the airplane came on time as scheduled. As depart from different place, Batam, Malaysia and Singapore, we choose meet point in Kinibalu. They are Indonesian lived there. For information, this mountaineering trip was organized by Karas Adventure which responsible from all from transport, accommodation, permission, and insurance. Simplified talking, all participant just pay the fee, but we keep the ordinary mountaineering rules, especially physical and mental condition.

Taking photo before starting climbing

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26 Februari 2012
Tengah malam kami sampai di Bandara Kota Kinabalu. Langsung dijemput mobil dan di-drop di hostel. Sampai hostel kami sedikit mendapatkan briefing buat acara besok, dan dilakukan pembagian kaos.
Pagi hari pukul 5 kami sudah bangun dan bersiap berangkat ke Kinabalu National Park. Perjalanan menggunakan mobil, melewati jalanan KK yang lengang, dan pemandangan pantai yang indah sampai pegunungan yang megah. Perjalanan berlangsung sekitar 2 jam.
Kami sampai di pos perijinan Kinabalu National Park yang dikelola oleh Sutera Sanctuary Lodge. Perijinan diurus oleh koordinator, sedangkan kami menyempatkan diri foto-foto

February 26th, 2013
We arrived at Kinibalu AP at midnight. Directly, the organized pick up and drop us in hostel where we got briefing about tomorrow’s agenda and also we got the t-shirt.
On 5th o’clock in the morning, we woke up and prepare for Kinibalu National Park trip. Passing through the city of Kinibalu, it was a quite place with beautiful beach and great building around it. It need two ours from the hostel to the National Park. The Kinibalu National Park was managed by Sutera Sanctuary Lodge, the permission to climb was done by the team coordinator while we take photo at the moment.

The Hostel in Kinibalu

Kinibalu City

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Selama pendakian, saya hanya membawa daypack yg isinya pakaian ganti, balaclava, kacamata, kaos kaki dan hand warmer, cemilan, minuman (termasuk minuman berenergi), senter, dan jas hujan.
Perjalanan cukup santai. Jalannya sangat jelas dan tampak memang ditata khusus untuk pendaki dan wisatawan. Seringkali saya disalip atau simpangan dengan porter yang bawaannya superberat dengan alat yg sangat sederhana. Sering juga disalip oleh pendaki bule, baik cowok atau cewek yang langkahnya memang panjang dan konstan.

In the trip, I just brought a day pack which contains dresses, balaclava, glasses, socks, hand warmer, snack and soft drink, headlamp and  raincoat.
The climbing trip was calm and pleasant. The path was very clear and it was designed for climber and tourist. On the way, we met porter and frequently other climber passed us, especially who from western country which has long and constant steps.

The path to the top of Kinbalu

List of annual climbathon winner
Summit trait map

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Sebelum memulai pendakian, kami mendapat briefing singkat mengenai pendakian tersebut. Kami mendapat ID card yang digunakan untuk check in di beberapa pos tertentu yang ada gerbangnya. Kami juga dikasih sarapan lho gan.

Before we start the climbing trip, we got short briefing about the climbing in Kinibalu itself. We also got ID Card for check-in  in somo climbing post which has gate on it. The breakfast was also provided by the organizer of the National park.

The breakfast before starting the climbing trip
Starting track
Litter provided in every shelter

Shelter/Post “pondok timpohon”
Trophical pitcher plant along the road

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Sampai pos yg terletak di tengah jalur, kami mengisi perut dengan bekal dari Sutera Sanctuary tadi. Lumayan menambah tenaga.
Langit mulai mendung dan berkabut. Gerimis pun mulai turun. Kami bersegera melanjutkan pendakian.
Sekitar pukul 15.00 saya sampai di Laban Rata Hut, sebuah penginapan yang terletak di ketinggian sekitar 3000 mdpl. Penginapannya tampak megah dan besar, terdiri dari 3 lantai. Beberapa pendaki yang tidak kebagian kamar di Laban Rata (yang mendaftar terakhir) dapat menginap di Gunting Lagadan Hut (sekitar 400 meter dari Laban Rata).

Arrived in the middle of the route, we eat the breakfast from the Sutera Sanctuary organizer, it gives benefits for our stamina and energy.
The sky looks cloudy and foggy at that time. Drizzling rain also appears, we continue our trip to the next lodge.
About 3 p.m o’clock we arrived in Laban Rata Hut, a lodge which lies in about 3000 m amsl (above mean sea level). The lodge wes big and great with three floors. Some climber who didn’t get room can sleep in Gunting Lagadan Hut (about 400 m from Laban Rata).

Laban Rata Hut
Entrance of laban rata hut

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Setelah masuk kamar dan menaruh daypack, saya segera bergabung dengan grup pendakian di Lounge yg jadi satu dengan dapur dan resto. Disana terdapat banyak makanan yang langsung tinggal ambil aja alias prasmanan alias buffet

After put our bag in the room, we joined with other climbers in the kitchen which is also the lounge and restaurant itself. Many menus were provided and just take what you want as buffet or “prasmanan” in Indonesian language.

Joining lunch with others

The room in Laban Rata

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Tidak lama kemudian matahari tenggelam dari barat dan kami menikmati pemandangan sunset dari balkon penginapan. Tampak dari arah timur para porter dan guide sedang bermain bola di tanah lapang, sejajar dengan awan.
Malam harinya kami makan malam lebih awal. Agar bisa istirahat lebih awal juga. Saya sempat mandi pake shower dan air hangat. Jarang-jarang bisa kayak gini, di ketinggian 3000mdpl lebih pula.

After it, the sunset was look beautiful from our room’s balcony. From the east, the porters and guide seen played joyfulness football in the field, at the same level with the cloud. In the night, we got dinner early so we can take a rest as soon as possible. We also used the facilities offered by the lodge, take a bath with shower and warm water. It cannot be done frequently to take a bath in 3000 m amsl.

The porters and guide played football

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27 Februari 2012
Sekitar pukul 4 kami semua sudah bangun dengan headlamp terpasang. Di Lounge sudah disediakan sarapan ringan ala barat. Roti dan variannya. Ada juga bubur ayam, sereal, dan berbagai minuman hangat. Para peserta tampak sarapan secukupnya, sedangkan saya makan sepuasnya..
Setelah puas mengisi sumber energi, kami semua beranjak pergi. Di luar masih gelap dan basah. Ternyata semalam hujan lumayan deras, dan saat itu masih gerimis sedikit-sedikit. Para guide tampak tak kenal lelah mengingatkan pendaki untuk berhati-hati.
Kami, rombongan dari Indonesia, berkumpul di Gunting Lagadan Hut bersama beberapa peserta yang menginap disana. Dari sana, kami segera beranjak menuju puncak. Medan perjalanan didominasi bebatuan. Sampai pada satu titik, kami semua harus berjalan di medan yang hanya berupa batu, dengan bantuan rope. Dari sini kemiringan mulai tajam, dan langkah harus benar-benar diperhatikan supaya tidak terpeleset.

February, 27th 2012
About 4 a.m o’clock we woke up. With the headlamp, we take western breakfast: a pan and it variants.  A chicken porridge is also available along with cereal and some warm drinks. While other just take a little, I eat as much as I can..
Finishing breakfast, we start our trip. It still dark and little rain outside. It looks a heavy rain was occurred last night, and the path still wet because of water. The guide always remind us to be careful because the trip was hazardous.
We are, a team from Indonesia, meet in Gunting Lagadan Hut along with other who stayed there. From there, we continue to reach the top of Kinibalu. The path dominated by stones, at a point we must use rope to climb as all is stone. The slope then we very sharp, and it need to keep notice on our steps so we didn’t slipped on the way.

The notice board

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Menjelang puncak terdapat pos check point terakhir. Dari sana perjalanan mulai agak landai. Namun tetap harus berhati-hati, karena beberapa jalan terlihat basah karena hujan. Tampak cahaya senter berjajar berurutan dari kejauhan. Sekitar 300 meter menuju puncak, matahari tampak mengintip dari balik bebatuan. Sedangkan dibaliknya adalah samudra awan yang berkilauan tertimpa mentari. Subhanallah. Sungguh indah sekali.

Approaching the top, we met the last check point. From there, the path was easier then previous one, but we need to keep notice as the road was wet because of rain. The lamp from the climber seen as line from the far. About 300 m to the top, the sun was seen behind the stone while in the backside, a group of clouds was burnished beautifully by shine of the sun. Subhanallah, it was very beautiful.

 
Silhouette above the clouds 
The sunrise

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Saya dan beberapa rekan berfoto sejenak, sambil mengeluarkan bandrek panas dalam termos yg sudah saya racik tadi sebelum mendaki. Beberapa rekan perjalanan dari Malaysia sempat mencobanya, dan mereka suka. Dari situ terlihat antrian pendaki ingin berfoto di Low’s Peak, puncak tertinggi Kinabalu. Memang, puncak tertinggi Kinabalu hanya terdiri dari sepetak batu yang lebar dan hanya cukup buat berdiri sekitar 5 orang dewasa. Puncak tersebut dikelilingi pagar pembatas—yang apabila kita mengintip akan tampak jurang yang dalam menganga dari kejauhan. Kinabalu memang gunung yang sangat tinggi dan indah. Subhanallah.

I take photos with friends for a while and I drink “bandrek” (ginger) which I made before I leave the lodge. Some brother from Malaysia try it, and they like it. From there, a queue for whom to take photos in Low’s peek was seen. The Low’s peek as the highest point in Kinibalu just a stone which only 5 persons can stand on it. The highest peek was surrounded with safety fench, and beside it, a very depth gulch was shown far away. Kinibalu was a very beautiful and high mountain. Subhanallah.

The St. John’s peak
The stone path with the rope

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27-28 Februari 2012
Sampai di bawah, kami sempat makan siang sebentar lalu lanjut turun ke bawah sekitar pukul 4 sore. Kami menginap di hotel kecil di dekat Sutera Sanctuary. Besoknya kami makan-makan di sebuah resto seafood di pagi harinya, lalu ke pusat oleh-oleh dan ke toko outdoor terkemuka di Kota Kinabalu. Sekitar pukul 18, kami bertolak pulang ke Jakarta.

February 17-28th, 2012
After reach the top, we comeback to the ground floor. We had lunch in National park entrance gate, and arrive there about 4 o’clock p.m. We stayed in hotel near Sutera Sanctuary. The next day, we breakfast in seafood restaurant in Kinibalu, then we buy some souvenirs and visit outdoor shop in Kinibalu. At 6 o’clock p.m we leaved Kinibalu to back to Jakarta.  Finish.

Before back to Indonesia

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Epilog:
Gunung Kinabalu sangat cocok untuk pendaki yg ingin keamanan dan kenyamanannya terjamin penuh. Karena ikut tur, saya tidak tahu rincian biayanya secara detail. Biaya tur yg saya ikuti adalah 6 juta rupiah, termasuk tiket PP Jakarta – Kota Kinabalu, biaya pendakian, transportasi, dan akomodasi selama di sana.

Mount Kinibalu is appropriate for climber who wants conformity and safety during its climbing trips. Because the tour was organized by third party, we don’t know the detail fees. Globally, we pay IDR 6000000 to the organizer including airplane ticket Jakarta-Kinibalu vv, climbing ticket, transportation and accommodation.

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